PARIS (AP) – Against strobelites suggesting more shady than spectacles, Alessandro Michele’s Valentino collection has shown restraint in the event of a riot. Prim ’70S silhouette – Bow, Routing, Velvet Skirt – Set the mood Paris Fashion Week A controlled nostalgia.
High Point was a draped gold gown with a feathered white collar, evoking mythology and Valentino’s Roman past. A polka dot shirt, a satin skirt split with bright yellow panels, and occasional color blocking kept the eclectic spirit alive, but without the power of enthusiasm, Michele would have unfolded before.
That was the story of the show: less spectacle, more edited. The early collection of Michele’s house and his previous Gucci tenure cut tassels, turbans, ruffles, high stacked references – cleaner lines and styling that cut back on styling. The results felt more wearable, but surprisingly amazing.
Valentino’s identity is rooted in beauty and Polish. Under founder Valentino Garavani, the house meant the elegance of the jet set and “Valentino Red.” Under designer Pierpaolo Piccioli, it leaned towards couture-like refinement. Michele came in with Maximalist Nostalgia, Gender-Fluid Styling, and Deep Archive Mining: Maximalist Nostalgia, another toolkit. He says the job is to “manipulate the past and make it now,” balancing modern maximalism and relevance to ensure that brands don’t freeze in time.
His first season revealed that. Last year’s return is packed with bows, ruffles, tassels, turbans and gorgeous embroidery. The accessories were “patterned” and the casting and set were theatrical plays. The January couture debut went further – Crinoline and Pannier, Fellini-style Roman notes, and a long list of old Hollywood and church references. It proved the scope, but also increased the risk of the outfit.
Michele also tried to ground the house with daily wear, including tweed pants, V-neck knits, faux fur jackets, and even a van collaboration that sat next to a porcelain kitty clutch and a cat face dress. That split – wardrobe vs. wonder – is the tension he continues to try to resolve.
In contrast, the latest collection looked almost cautious. It captured Michele’s eclectic instincts, but gained a more neater, safer key. This was not a new or ecstasy shock from his previous shows. Instead, it was a quiet chapter, proof that Michele could restrain.
