Paris (AP) – Chemena Kamali said it in a flower print. A collection of good old styles that set some themes on the table and spent the rest Paris Fashion Week Sunday refines them – evidence that the focus can still feel new.
Kamari is currently in her third stint with Chloe and knows the house from inside. Like born in Germany Karl Lagerfeldshe worked here for both Phoebe Phillo and Claire Wight Keller before returning to creative director last year.
Chloe was founded in 1952 by Gabby Aggion and is widely believed to have invented ready-made clothes in Paris. Kamari’s vision taps its core: agion of romantic lightness and movement keeps moving. Lagerfeld’s 70s cape and lace. The ease of use of “Chloe Girl” from the 2000s. A flash of Stella McCartney’s wit. This project remains clothing for women, for women. This is an “intuitive” dressing that evolves like life itself.
Print, pastel, great hem
The print wasn’t beautiful. They set the tempo. After that, the silhouette expanded. Yellow pearls, aerial lined trees of coats and skirts, layers, knots, lightly glowing – living conditions of surfaces, calmness of structure. The flashes of colour and beautiful legs kept the message.
One pastel look depicted a maxi shoulder from the 80s, crystallizing the draped, loose, pleated mood, and a long, confident line of hips.
The dropped hem returned in a grey coat dress with quiet authority. The tongue coat skirt, waist tightened, hovered between the coat and dress, no choice. The ruffles and belts can be passed through like home.
References were adjusted rather than screaming: Lagerfeld’s 70s fluidity, “Chloé Girl” from the 2000s is a measured dose of the 80s structure grounding the float. It reads as memory works.
There is still some caution. As her shoulders get stiff and her outerwear gains weight, Chloe’s natural freshness gets darker. Here, its weight was primarily useful for the line, but some outlets pushed the limit.
Still, this sum was clear and convincing. Romance with discipline, stories of the present in the past, ideas carried instead of stacked up. Chloe has stabilized her rhythm and sells just as much sense as her clothes.
