Hamarik: The enduring legacy of Turkish porters since the Ottoman Empire

ISTANBUL (AP) – On Istanbul’s streets, porters carrying giant bags wrapped in white plastic on their backs or in wheelbarrows are a ubiquitous but often overlooked part of the city’s fabric.

Portering, known as “hamarik” in Turkish, is a profession that has continued from the Ottoman Empire to the present day.

This is especially common in Istanbul’s historic trade districts, the Egyptian Bazaar, Grand Bazaar, and Eminonu districts, where traditional commercial buildings known as hans house workshops and businesses producing jewelry, textiles, and other goods.

Porters remain essential, as much of the centuries-old Han city has no elevators and is surrounded by narrow streets impassable to cars. In Eminonu, many streets are closed to traffic during the day, making their work even more important.

Porters can carry 200 to 300 kilograms (440 to 660 pounds) of goods up to the fifth floor of the Han using a cemel, a traditional wood and leather harness worn on the back. These cicadas are often passed down from father to son, reflecting the generational nature of the trade. (This profession is traditionally male, and female porters are extremely rare.)

Porters are organized into departments, with leaders responsible for distributing work fairly among members and receiving a daily wage based on the number and weight of loads carried.

It’s a grueling job that requires extraordinary strength and endurance, and only a few can cope with the physical challenge. Porters take pride in their craft and are selective about who joins their ranks.

Omer Okan, 60, has worked as a porter for 30 years, often carrying more than 500 kilograms a day.
Work is unstable. Okan points out that most porters work without insurance and cannot earn money if they become ill or injured. Jobs are starting to dry up as large wholesalers have moved out of Eminonu, where he works.

“Some days I go home without making any money,” he says.

The profession was inherited from his grandfather. Although moms take pride in their work, they can sometimes feel ignored by the society that depends on their work.

“When I started in this profession, people treated us with great respect,” he said. “Now in Türkiye, no one respects others.”

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This is a documentary photo story handpicked by AP photo editors.