It’s over gardening season, And if you’ve endured a less-than-perfect layout, you might be itching to move your shrubs. However, proper timing is essential.
I accidentally planted a clesula tree near a peach tree, and the tangled branches have been bothering me all summer. However, since Cressula is a late flowering species, you will have to wait a little longer until it is safe to move it.
As a rule, shrubs (and perennials) that bloom from late summer to autumn should be transplanted in the spring, immediately after awakening from dormancy. This timing gives the roots enough time to establish before the plant’s energy goes to flowering.
Spring and early summer bloomers should be moved in the fall, long after the flowers have bloomed and, in some cases, the leaves have died back.
start from the roots
Before digging up your shrub, find out how deep and wide its roots typically grow. For example, shallow-rooted shrubs like rhododendrons are easier to dig up than ones like manzanita, which have very deep root systems. Also take into account the age of the plant, as mature shrubs have larger roots than younger shrubs.
The new hole should be as close as possible to twice the width of the root and exactly the same depth.
To minimize root exposure, always dig a hole for the plant’s new home before removing it from the ground.
If possible, gently tie the plant’s branches together so you can see the area you’re digging. This step also helps prevent eye damage from incorrect stems.
Careful to dig out as many roots as possible, drive a sharp shovel into the soil at what you think is the furthest point of the roots and work your way around the plant. Then repeat the same steps. Now use more force and insert the tool deep enough to lift the roots from below the ground.
Planting tips
To avoid losing soil and damaging the roots and back, place the entire shrub on a tarpaulin and drag the tarpaulin to the new hole you have prepared.
Carefully slide the root ball into the hole and assess the depth. If necessary, remove the plant from the hole and add or remove soil as needed so that the point where the roots meet (the plant’s crown) is at the same height as before.
If planted too deep, the crown and trunk will eventually rot. If it is too shallow, the roots will dry out, be damaged by sunlight and cold, and have difficulty spreading horizontally.
Once you are satisfied that the shrub is straight and at the appropriate depth, begin backfilling the hole with soil, stopping periodically to tamp it down firmly to eliminate air pockets. Water the soil halfway through and resume backfilling and compacting. Water the soil again and apply mulch throughout the root zone to retain soil moisture, regulate soil temperature, and prevent weeds.
During the first year in your new home, water regularly after every frost, but don’t fertilize yet.
Feed with a slow-release, low-nitrogen fertilizer in mid-to-late spring. If you do this early, the plant will allocate its limited energy to growth rather than recovery and root development.
Giving your transplant time to establish can mean the difference between a struggling shrub and one that thrives for years to come.
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Jessica Damiano writes a weekly gardening column for The Associated Press and publishes the award-winning Weekly Dirt Newsletter. You can sign up here Get weekly gardening tips and advice.
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